A Three Vintage Vertical of Angel Vine’s Pinot Noir
After tasting through a three vintage vertical of Angel Vine’s “the Morgster” Eola-Amity Hills Pinot noir, Ed Fus (Angel Vine’s owner/winemaker) so generously sent our way it was easy to see why he would want us to taste all three together. The appeal different vintages of the same wine from the same vineyard can produce is certainly alluring. The distinct characteristics could not have been expressed more accurately than in these three disparate vintage examples from 2009, 2010 and 2011.
The Three Angels Vineyard located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA was planted in 2004 to a clone of Pinot noir that is referred to as the upright 828 or “droit” clone. The original cuttings are said to have been smuggled into the states from Burgundy’s Grand Cru “La Tache” vineyard.
Traditionally La Tache produces wines of dark black fruit with violet and licorice overtones. When grown in the Willamette, results are more red fruit, earth and mushroom. This vertical tasting will serve as a benchmark for future reference while considering the attributes of this specific clone. In every personal relationship eventually there comes a time when you have to be frank and express your opinions even when you know those opinions will not be received joyously. Thankfully this will not be one of those stories about occasions like that. Ed Fus has delivered desirable results in all three vintages. The wines display discernible differences from vintage to vintage exhibiting a focused consistency of winemaking skills.
2011 Angel Vine Morgster Three Angels Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot noir
I feel privileged to be included in the few who will get to taste this wine. Only 56 cases were made. Fruit was limited because it was the coolest, wettest and latest Willamette Valley harvest on record. Some fruit did not come in until early November. I have said it before, and I will say it again; just because a specific vintage was challenging and may have not produced pristine fruit, does not mean all the wines made that year will be bad. That said, let’s get on to reviewing this wine. Bright red, high beam fruit, candied cherry, raspberry mascarpone swirl, coffee, leather and rocks are expressed in a tightly wound package. A big wine without being weighty, it stays focused through the mid-palate delivering a high note finish that almost touches shrill before the crescendo tops out exiting pleasantly. Roasted winter vegetable and pancetta risotto would complement the wines characteristics. Grilled pork tenderloin with spicy grilled peach chutney will also work well.
Rating: Very Good (89) | $30 | 13.2% ABV
2010 Angel Vine Morgster Three Angels Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot noir
When the grapes finally came in, Willamette Valley’s vintage 2010 had suffered a disastrous onslaught of descending avian species ravaging crops and diminishing yields by as much as 40%. The non- voluntary thinning of the crops produced clean flavors that are refined and restrained (quite a departure from the opulent 2009 vintage). The 2010 vintage presents a good example of how distinctly different and unique characteristics develop at specific sites from vintage to vintage. This wine expresses aromas of dark fruit, and a slight barnyard earthiness some find very appealing. On the palate, the flavors carry much of the same elements exhibited in the aromas. The fruit is a bit more red and the barnyard component almost non-existent in the flavor profile. The finish is a bit tight but with a couple more years in the bottle, it should open up nicely. The light frame with forward acidity will contrast well with softer, savory dishes like Sheppard’s pie made from Oregon lamb.
Rating: Very Good (88) | $28 | 13.2% ABV
2009 Angel Vine Morgster Three Angels Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot noir
Very indicative to the vintage with an opulence achieved from harvesting well-matured fruit then bottle aging for four years. Wet brick aromas may not sound like a great descriptor especially if you have ever had your face slammed into some, but when combined with the right combination of fruit the smell of moist clay becomes very enticing. This wine has that combination. On the palate, bright red and black fruit are the stars of the show with a distinct caramelized brown sugar note filling the role like a supporting actor with a pretty big part. Five years into its journey, this wine has held up pretty well. With less than a hundred cases made adding a few bottles to your cellar is becoming a rare opportunity whose window is shrinking and will be non-existent soon. This is a weightier style of wine that not all Pinot noir fans will embrace. It will handle culinary creations sometimes not often accomplished by a lighter style Pinot noir. Go big with grilled or braised lamb, roasted duck or porcini mushroom dishes; it can handle them all with style and grace.
Rating: Very Good (86) | $28 | 14.0% ABV
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