Christian de Rivel is a man of intrigue, passion, and unrelenting curiosity. His journey into viticulture began with an extensive exploration of rare indigenous red grape varieties, focusing specifically on 100 distinct varieties out of the known 200. His research centered on identifying grapes with natural resilience to climate change challenges – extreme heat, drought conditions, and disease resistance.
This search led him to two particularly interesting descendants of Cabernet Sauvignon—Arinarnoa (a cross between Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon) and Marselan (a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, known for its resilience and its exquisite balance).
Arinarnoa proved disappointing in taste, so he shifted his attention to Marselan, which showed more promise.
The numbers spoke volumes – France had only 160 hectares dedicated to Arinarnoa compared to 6,000 hectares of Marselan vineyards. His research identified 70 producers creating pure Marselan wines, and he decided to contact all of them to conduct a comprehensive tasting event in February 2022.
The tasting revealed an opportunity – while many wines showed promise, none fully achieved the perfect balance Christian envisioned: a wine that could compete with global premium wines while showcasing the finest attributes inherited from its noble parentage – depth, textural complexity, structural integrity, and refined style. Intrigued, Christian embarked on a journey to uncover the essence of Marselan.
Along the way, he tasted countless expressions of the varietal, each revealing its potential for depth and nuance. Yet, something was missing—a signature – a style that could encapsulate the soul of Marselan.
Determined to create his own masterpiece, Christian found a partner to help him with his journey, and after years of meticulous cultivation and blending, Christian finally achieved his vision. He bottled his creation under the name Gran Marselan, a tribute to the grape and his journey. His approach was unorthodox: he opted for a low-intervention style, allowing the terroir to express itself fully.
According to Christian, “Marselan is a prime candidate to replace many varietals weakened by climate change. The result is wines with richer flavors, deeper colors, and more tannins, giving them excellent aging potential. Its natural disease resistance also makes it ideal for organic and sustainable viticulture. Marselan’s versatility allows it to adapt to various soils and climates, delivering a wide range of tastes and flavors. Hence, it’s often referred to as the “Grape of the Future.”
Despite its potential, Marselan is still primarily used as a blending grape in France. In 2019, it became one of four new red grapes authorized for Bordeaux wines. Since 2020, Marselan can make up to 10% of Bordeaux Superior and Bordeaux AOC blends, though it cannot be listed on labels. As a result, blending remains the norm (for now).
Gran Marselan Non-Vintage: A Tasting Note
NV Gran Marselan, Arles, France ($129)
We tasted the recent release of Gran Marselan Non-Vintage, and it’s a wine of striking elegance and character. In the glass, it shimmers with a deep garnet hue, hinting at its richness. On the nose, it offers an aromatic symphony of blackberries, plums, and dried herbs, underscored by subtle notes of cocoa, tobacco, and a touch of lavender.
The palate is equally captivating, with flavors of ripe blackcurrants, dark cherries, and a whisper of vanilla oak. The wine is graceful—full-bodied yet balanced, with finely woven tannins that lend to its structure. A mineral undertone adds depth, while a burst of fresh acidity keeps it lively. The finish is long and complex, leaving lingering impressions of spiced fruits and a hint of dusty earth.
Gran Marselan is a testament to Christian de Rivel’s vision and the extraordinary potential of the Marselan grape. It’s a wine that invites reflection, celebration, and a renewed appreciation for the artistry of winemaking.
Here’s to Marselan. If you’d like to taste an extremely limited one-time allocation bottling of Gran Marselan (while adding another grape to your Wine Century Club punch card), head to the website and grab a bottle. And make sure you decant for 2 hours before serving…you won’t regret it!
Marselan grape image: https://marselanselection.com/
