Chablis and its 47 Climats

The term ‘Climat’ designates a place in Burgundy, and refers to plots of land that have unique climatic and geological conditions that characterizes the wines’ aromas, flavors and textures. The oldest known written record of the word is documented in Chablis, dating back to 1540, and its name is from the Greek word “klima”, or Latin “clima”, meaning inclination.

From 1935, the National Institute of Appellations of Origin (INAO) made the term ‘Climat’ official, and it is now used for all Burgundian appellations. In Burgundy, there are thousands of Climats.  In Chablis, the region has 47 Climats. 40 are designated Chablis Premier Cru, and 7 are Chablis Grand Cru. The latter sit on the right bank of the Serein River. The Chablis Premier Cru sit on both the right and left bank—24 are on the left, and 16 on the right.

Chablis’ right bank, where the Grand Cru are, is generally warmer and sunnier, with mostly south and southwest facing plots. The left bank is generally cooler, receiving more morning sun as they face east and southeast. A fun tidbit is that the Kimmeridgian soils are so distinctive they were quarried to build the St. Pauls Cathedral in London.

At a recent wine tweetup, I tasted Chablis from four different Climats with Master of Wine Christy Canterbury. Each wine has unique characteristics as described below.

2016 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Premier Cru, Montmains, France ($39)

Climats Montmains is a top premier cru located on the left bank of the Serein River, an area that stretches along a hillside southwest of the town Chablis. In 1537, there were several variations in the spelling of the name Montmains, including “Mont Moen”, and “Montmoyen”, and “Montmains”. The name describes the medium-sized mountain that is lower than two surrounding peaks, known to produce Chablis’ best known Premier Cru vineyards. Wines from this area are often fresh and elegant with a good dose of minerality. The 2016 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis is ripe, yet lively with toasted notes, candied lemon and spice.

2016 La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume, France ($36)

Climats Fourchaume is a top premier cru located on the right bank of the Serein River. According to the Chablis Commission, the name Fourchaume may come from “four à chaux” or “le fourchaux” (lime kiln). Or it could come from the word “fourche” (fork), referring to a fork in a road. However, local tradition has a different explanation, suggesting it relates to the “fourche patibulaire”, a sinister-looking gibbet made from two posts sticking out of the ground, that was once located half a league away on the road to Chablis, at the foot of the Fourchaume hill. Wines from this area often have mineral, crushed stones, and chalky notes, and this wine fits the descriptor, with fragrant apple notes, and a round mouthfeel.

2014 Maison Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru, Mont De Milieu, France ($38)

Climats Mont De Milieu is a top premier cru located on the right bank of the Serein River. The name refers to the oddness of the hillside that used to have a boundary running through its middle (“millieu”), between the jurisdiction of Chablis, which used to be located in the county of Champagne, and that of Fleys, in the Duchy of Bourgogne. The plot where this wine was grown has higher temperatures and longer sunny days than the other Premiers Crus. The 2014 Maison Drouhin Vaudon is delicious with mineral, white flowers and citrus notes.

2015 Domaine Denis Race Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons, France ($27)

Climats Vaillons is one of the largest premier cru located on the left bank of the Serein River. The high-quality Kimmeridgian soils make for an excellent growing region, producing floral, delicate wines with mineral notes. In 1429, the name was spelled “Valion”, with the notion of a little valley, a “vallon” which was changed to “Vaillon”. Old folk here used to call valleys “valsons,” similar to the Latin word “vallis” or “valles” (valley). The area receives good sunlight on the hills in the morning, so grapes reach their optimum ripeness in an otherwise cool region.  The 2015 Domaine Denis Race Chablis is fruity, round and fresh.

Are you ready for some fun? Find some wines from each Climats (here is a list of the 47 Climats) and taste the differences each have to offer.